Stepping onto your patio on a warm July morning and picking a handful of sun-warmed tomatoes for breakfast is one of the great joys of small-space growing. Tomatoes are naturally sprawling, sun-loving plants, and in the UK our summers can be unreliable. Containers give you control over compost, watering and shelter. A south- or west-facing wall that traps warmth creates a microclimate a few degrees warmer than the open garden. On an allotment, a paved corner near a shed or fence works just as well. Aim for at least six hours of direct sunshine and protection from strong winds, which can snap brittle stems.
Pot size matters more than most beginners realise. A tomato in a tiny pot will dry out twice a day, suffer blossom end rot and produce a disappointing crop. For a single compact bush variety, use a container holding at least 10 litres of compost, with a diameter of 30–35 cm. For larger or cordon types, go for 15–20 litres. Old buckets, trugs and sturdy reusable bags can work, provided you drill drainage holes. Never use garden soil in a pot: it compacts, drains poorly and brings in weeds and diseases. Instead, use a peat-free multi-purpose compost mixed with a handful of slow-release fertiliser and some horticultural grit for drainage. Fill the pot to about 5 cm below the rim so you can water thoroughly without it running straight off.
Not every tomato suits a pot. Tall, rampant cordon varieties quickly outgrow a patio unless you train them up a tall cane. For small spaces, choose determinate bush types that stay compact and crop within a short season. ‘Tumbling Tom’ is a classic trailing cherry tomato that looks lovely in a hanging basket, but it also thrives in a pot, producing cascades of sweet red or yellow fruit. ‘Garden Pearl’ is another bush cherry with good disease resistance. ‘Red Alert’ is early and reliable, while ‘Totem’ stays neat and produces medium-sized fruit. If you want a larger tomato, try ‘Losetto’, a compact bush that gives plum-shaped fruits ideal for sauces. For a bit of colour, ‘Sungold’ is a cordon, but it can be grown in a large pot with a single stem and a sturdy cane; the orange cherries are worth the extra effort.
Plant out only when the risk of frost has passed, usually late May or early June in most of the UK. Harden plants off for a week by putting them outside in the day and bringing them in at night. When you plant, bury the stem up to the first set of leaves: tomatoes will grow new roots along the buried stem, giving you a stronger plant. Water the hole before planting, then firm the compost gently. Support depends on the variety. Bush tomatoes can be left to sprawl over the pot edge, but a small wire cage or three short canes with string will keep fruit off the ground. Cordon tomatoes need a tall cane, a spiral support or a length of string tied to an overhead fixing. Tie in the main stem every week, and pinch out side shoots that appear between the leaf and the stem. Remove the growing tip once four or five trusses have set fruit, so the plant puts energy into ripening rather than more leaves.
Inconsistent watering is the number one cause of split fruit and blossom end rot. Tomatoes want even moisture, not a flood followed by a drought. On a sunny patio, a 10-litre pot may need watering twice a day in July and August. Check by pushing your finger into the compost: if it is dry 2 cm down, water until it runs out of the drainage holes. A saucer under the pot can help, but empty it after an hour so roots do not sit in water. Feeding begins when the first flowers set fruit. Use a high-potash tomato fertiliser, diluted according to the packet, once a week. If you used a slow-release feed at planting, wait until that has run its course, usually six weeks. Never feed a dry plant: water first, then feed, or you risk burning the roots.
Watch out for greenfly, whitefly and blight. Greenfly can be blasted off with a jet of water or rubbed off by hand; a few ladybirds will help. Whitefly are more common in still, warm conditions, so keep the patio airy. Blight is a fungal disease that thrives in wet, humid weather. Remove any affected leaves immediately and avoid overhead watering. As fruits ripen, remove lower leaves that shade them, which also improves airflow. If your tomatoes are slow to colour at the end of the season, stop watering and feeding, and place a ripe banana skin near the base—the ethylene gas can encourage ripening. You can also pick green tomatoes before the first frost and ripen them indoors in a paper bag with an apple. Finally, clean your pots and supports at the end of the season, and store them dry. Next year, start again with fresh compost. A little effort on a sunny patio rewards you with flavour that no supermarket tomato can match.
Mix evergreen shrubs, bulbs and seasonal flowers in pots to keep colour and structure going through every season without needing a large border.
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
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I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
I must explain to you how all this mistaken idea of denouncing pleasure and praising pain was born and I will give you a complete account of the system
Reply
Prepare a simple raised bed with weed-free compost, then sow cut-and-come-again leaves and hardy herbs for repeated pickings from spring onwards.
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